Restaurant

A FEW MONTHS ago, Alan Richman, GQ’s veteran restaurant critic, set out to write a cultural-phenomenon piece about M. Wells, a year-old shabby-chic diner in Queens, N.Y., and that borough’s first destination restaurant. Gourmands flocked for its over-the-top “Quebeco-American” cuisine–foie gras tamales, cote-de-boeuf and fried soft-shell-crab combo plates, duck testicles,…

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The table spread in front of me is beautiful. There isn’t any fine china, Irish linen, or crystal in the presentation–not an Art Deco plate, or piece of silver. The napkins are paper and the dishes are cheap, but the effect is mouthwatering, nonetheless: Colorful bowls of dark red salsa…

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Glade is the new daytime restaurant at Sketch. It’s called Glade because the interior design is meant to evoke a forest rather than, say, those awful air-fresheners used by lower-income types because they cannot afford fresh flowers daily, but still. It’s a crap name and there you have it and…

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